Wine 101

Does Wine Get Better With Age?

Aging does not add flavour to wine, it trades fruit for something else. Only bottles with tannin, acid or sugar underneath survive it, and most have none.

Does wine get better with age, and how to tell whether a bottle is worth keeping

Most wine does not. Aging does not add flavour, it trades fruit for other flavours, and only a wine with enough tannin, acid or sugar underneath has anything worth trading for. An estimated 90 percent of the world’s wine is made to be drunk within a year of release.

What aging actually does to a bottle

Nothing goes into a sealed bottle. That is the part the romance leaves out.

What happens instead is a slow swap. Fresh primary aromas, the blackcurrant and citrus and cherry, fade year by year. In their place, slower reactions build what tasters call tertiary character: dried fruit, leather, mushroom, nuts, honey in older whites. Tannins link up and fall out as sediment, so the texture goes from firm to silky. Reds shed colour toward brick, whites gain gold.

So the useful question is not whether a wine will improve. It is whether there is anything under the fruit you would rather be drinking. Wine Spectator’s Dr. Vinny answers the five-year rule the same way, noting that wines are ready when released and hold their quality for a few years, and that only some have a second life after that.

What lets a wine survive the trade

Three things hold a wine up once the fruit starts going: tannin, acidity, and sugar. A bottle with none of them has nothing left when the fruit leaves.

What holds it upTypical examplesRough window
TanninCabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Bordeaux blends5 to 20 years
AcidityRiesling, Chenin Blanc, Chablis, vintage Champagne5 to 15 years
Sugar with aciditySauternes, Tokaji, late-harvest RieslingDecades
Very little of anyMost supermarket wine under twenty dollarsDrink now

Those windows are rough by nature, since producer and vintage move them around. The pattern underneath is reliable though. An eight dollar red aged for ten years does not become a fifty dollar red. It becomes a faded eight dollar red, because subtraction was the only thing on offer.

Where you keep it decides how fast the clock runs

A wine built to last ten years will not last ten years in a warm kitchen.

A study published in Metabolomics in 2014 put 400 bottles of Tuscan wine through two storage conditions, half in a professional cellar and half in a dark room that copied the temperature swings of a home closet. After six months in domestic conditions the wine was chemically about as old as cellar-stored bottles after two years. The closet wines also lost colour and antioxidants faster and showed more of the reactions that precede faults.

Roughly four times the speed, in other words, without anyone touching the bottles. If you want a wine to age rather than simply get old, the spot needs:

  • A temperature that stays put, which matters more than hitting any particular number
  • Darkness, since light degrades wine and clear bottles worst of all
  • Bottles on their side when the closure is a natural cork

A closet on an interior wall beats a kitchen rack above the oven by a wide margin, and costs nothing.

When the honest answer is to open it tonight

Aging is a preference, not an upgrade. Some drinkers love the mushroom-and-leather end of the spectrum. Plenty of others try a properly aged bottle and quietly miss the fruit, which is a legitimate reaction and not a failure of palate.

For nearly everything on a supermarket shelf, the bottle is at its best on the day you buy it, and the year on the label is telling you about the weather rather than about a future. Keeping it another five years only moves it further from the fruit that was the point of buying it.

AboutWine reads the bottle in front of you and explains what it is built for, rather than handing you a score. Download it on the App Store.

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell if a bottle is worth keeping?

Look for a grip of tannin, a sharp line of acidity, or real sweetness, because those are the only things that outlast the fruit. Price is a rough proxy, since structured wines cost more to grow and make. If a wine tastes soft, round and fruit-forward on release, that is the best it will ever be.

Does an expensive bottle always age better?

No. Price correlates with structure but does not guarantee it. A rich, low-acid, high-alcohol red at sixty dollars can fade faster than a tense twenty-five dollar Riesling, because the Riesling has acidity holding it together. Style tells you more than the receipt does.

Is a bottle ruined if I kept it in a kitchen rack?

Not ruined, but older than the label suggests. Warm, swinging temperatures run the chemical clock several times faster, so a few years on a kitchen counter can leave a wine tasting like a much older bottle. Open it rather than saving it for later.